|Let the ‘Fat-Busting’ begin! Karina with Coolscupting Machine|
|Let the ‘Fat-Busting’ begin! Karina with Coolscupting Machine|
I don’t know how we missed this post this summer but the very so stylish Aleeza of Stylish and Literate posted about the merits of our Simply Zinc Sun Whip. We are so happy that she gave us her sign of approval.
Big thanks to Aleeza and definitely check out the rest of her very well written blog.
|Photo credit: Stylish and Literate: Simply Zinc and others|
Stylish&Literate: Summer Sun Defense: Hello global warming! The weather has been so inconsistent in the past couple of weeks with snow, heat waves, thunderstorms… but …
|CyberDERM Zinc Oxide Sunscreens- Simply Zinc and Every Morning|
Albeit a technical doc, this still remains a handy link for those looking to really delve into the science of formulations of zinc oxide sunscreens. These were the principles and thinking that went into formulating our two zinc oxide sunscreens: Simply Zinc Sun Whip SPF 30 and our Every Morning Sun Whip SPF 25.
This is a somewhat reductive guide because in the end your choice may just be a matter of which one feels right on your skin. We hope you find one that you love either way and stay protected all day, every day.
All the best,
|Shedding Some Light on What Makes a Good Sunscreen|
|How to get beautiful skin: Simply Zinc it and other tools
Never has a truer word been spoken before…beauty is all about skin tone. The symmetry of the face used to be the in vogue criteria for what was considered beautiful but now researchers are saying that good skin trumps good bone structure. Click here for the article from the Times in the UK. The good news… beautiful skin is really attainable, getting better cheek bones is a bit trickier.
Let’s take a look at the controversy about getting enough Vitamin D (especially this winter) while still wearing sunscreen every day. None of us want to get a case of #SAD, so use these tips to help boost your daily intake.
First consider why vitamin D is so important:
There are two forms of vitamin D that are important in humans:
Recent studies find many individuals in Canada to be deficient in vitamin D. They wear sunscreen for protection in the summer and spend the long winter months wrapped from head to toe in warm clothing. This limits the production of vitamin D from the lower UV exposure. Some recommend to spend a limited time of 10 minutes in the sun without a sunscreen from time to time. At CyberDERM and Laserderm (our sister medical clinic) we advocate stringent sunscreen protection all year round. The risk of UV exposure far outweigh any benefits from maintaining vitamin D production by the skin:
How much vitamin D do you really need?
We prefer that you get your Vitamin D from diet and supplements. The RDA may not be high enough for most Canadians. Most experts agree that children and adults who stay out of the sun require 1000-2000 IU daily, but you can safely take 2-4 thousand IU per day, particularly in the winter months.
What you may not know about vitamin D:
|Got to love Vitamin D while still protecting yourself from the Sun|
Get your Vitamin D from diet and select your sunscreen wisely:
As mentioned in previous blogs, using a truly broad spectrum for sunscreen is essential. Avoid the high SPF trap where most believe that the higher – the better. For adequate sunburn protection measured by the SPF number, most need a minimum of SPF 25-30. Ensure you get truly broad-spectrum protection from even long wave UVA, most high SPF sunscreens will not protect you adequately. Current research and the findings of the Environmental Working Group (EWG) confirm that zinc and titanium-based formulations are among the safest, most effective sunscreens on the market. Zinc gives complete UVA and UVB, while titanium affords complete UVB and partial UVA protection. Clear zinc products, such as CyberDERM’s Every Morning Sun Whip, provides the complete protection in an aesthetic invisible film.
Here is another post from May 2009- it’s a good little lexicon to help you understand sunscreen ingredients and everything below is still true today. You can always bring it to the drugstore if you need a primer or you can just remember that all you need is a high concentration of zinc oxide for a great sunscreen.
In an effort to make reading your sunscreen label really easy, I thought I would do a simple alphabetical lexicon of popular sunscreen ingredients, include ideal concentrations you should be looking for, state whether they are a UVB, UVA protector, and any other relevant things you should know. Here we go:
Avobenzone (Parsol 1789): 3% concentration. Long Wave UVA protector. Is not a stable ingredient and will break down when exposed to sunlight. Should not be used in formulas with Octinoxate. Can in theory be stabilized if combined with Oxybenzone and Octocrylene. Should be used in combination with another UVA protector as it offers marginal protection and does not span the full UVA spectrum.
Drometrizole Trisiloxane (Mexoryl XL): 3-4%. Short Wave UVA protector. A patented ingredient by L’Oreal. Has a synergistic effect when used with Mexoryl SX. Anthelios XL line in highest SPF’s offer the ideal combination of both.
Ecamsule (Mexoryl SX): 3-4% concentration. Short Wave UVA protector. A patented ingredient by L’Oreal. Offers medium protection but is better if combined with a 3-4% concentration of Mexoryl XL.
Homosalate: 5-15%. UVB protector. Provides margninal UVB protection, even in highest concentrations and should be used with other UVB protectors to provide an adequate SPF.
Octinoxate: 7.5%. UVB protector. A good UVB protector. Can be mildly irritating if not in an encapsulated version (unfortunately labels cannot distinguish between encapsulated and non-encapsualted).
Octisalate: 2-10%. UVB protector. Should be used in conjunction with other UVB protectors to get an adequate SPF.
Octocrylene: 2-10%. Primarily UVB, some UVA if in 10% concentration. Should be used in combination with other UVB protectors to get an adequate SPF. Is reported to stabilize avobenzone when used together.
Oxybenzone: 6%. Primarily UVB, some short wave UVA. Oxybenzone is a photo-allergen and many especially those with sensitive skin may find it to be irritating. Is reported to stabilize Avobenzone and makes up one third of Neutrogena’s patented Helioplex ingredient.
Tinosorb S/M: 5-10%. Both UVA and UVB. Not approved for us in the US. A good UVA protector (*to be noted: I have never used any products with Tinosorb and cannot speak to consistency/ texture issues).
Titanium Dioxide: 2-15%. If micronzied both some short wave UVA and UVB, if not micronized mostly UVB. Titanium Dioxide is considered a physical sun blocker. Should be used with Zinc Oxide or some other UVA protector. Excellent in mineral based make-up but can look pasty in some sunscreens if used in too high a concentration.
|Learning About What Best Protects Us|
Zinc Oxide: 10+-25%: The only single ingredient that provides full spectrum protection (short wave and long wave UVA and UVB). High percentages of Zinc Oxide make for an excellent, truly broad spectrum sunscreen. Micronized versions can look white if used in a percentage higher than 7%. Also provides a nice anti-inflammatory (zinc used in diaper rash creams).
I’ve only included the most popular ingredients but feel free to write in with any that you may have found that are not on the list. I’ve also tried to list them by their most common names but some ingredients actually are known by several different ones.
Basically, when reviewing your bottle, check to make sure that 1. You do have some UVA protector included (most brands will load up on the UVB protectors). 2. Make sure that if you have Avobenzone on your label, you do not have Octinoxate. 3. If you do have Avobenzone, look for another UVA protector to get optimal UVA protection. 4. If your brand includes Oxybenzone, skip it
We formulated our sunscreen with Invisible Zinc Oxide and Encapsulated Octinoxate because we think they work the best but now you have some tools to decide for yourself!
All the Beauty Best!
Sara A. Dudley
Check out one of our first blog posts in this month’s retrospective. This was written back in 2009 and you can see that not much as changed in terms of sunscreens since then. The FDA has pushed through their amendment to the sunscreen monograph and we are starting to hear more about UVA protection. Here in Canada, draft legislation is still in consultation so it will be another couple of years before we see its impact on the shelf.
We’ve just our first warm weekend here in Ottawa and a lot of pale faces are emerging but hopefully not before remembering to apply a sunscreen (you should actually be wearing one all year round- word to the wise). The problem though is that there is a lot of misinformation and confusion concerning sunscreens. Just when people were starting to get the message- ‘Wear a sunscreen’- the message had to go and get a lot more complicated.
We have all been told not to use tanning oils, that an SPF of 4 is not adequate. We know that if our sunscreen smells like a pina colada perhaps it is not a ‘serious’ sunscreen. We know to reapply repeatedly. We know that to burn is bad. We do not know, however, that the SPF measurement on the bottle could actually be doing us a disservice. We constantly hear about the numbers game that is SPF but what we really need is to be rewired about the way we think of sunscreens and what it means to be protected.
I have fallen victim to this same misunderstanding before. I’m a sun zealot and I vacation down South frequently. Despite this- I felt like I was being sun smart by wearing sunscreens with SPF’s of 50-60 everyday and I was reapplying it frequently. It was only when CyberDERM began formulating its own sunscreen and I began researching that I realized that the SPF on my bottle was only half the picture (and not the better half either).
Here is the short story. We are exposed to two kinds of UV radiation. The trick to remembering the two is simple: UVA light Ages our skin, UVB Burns, both cause Cancer (thus the rule of ABC). Protection against UVA light is absolutely critical not only for cosmetic reasons but for safety ones as well. However, SPF only measures the amount of protection from UVB light and is not correlated to the amount of protection you are receiving from UVA light whatsoever. In other words, when I turned over my bottle of SPF 50 sunscreen, I realized I was using a brand of sunscreen that offered almost no UVA protection! Worse- I was staying out in the sun for longer periods of time at peak hours because I had a false sense of security.
|The Beauty of Being Sun Smart-Every Morning Sun Whip|
Currently, both the FDA and Health Canada are coming up with a system to grade sunscreens on their level of UVA protection. They are running a little bit behind though. I would guess however that many sunscreens on the market today will have to consider reformulating once the new labeling laws do come out.
Your next logical question may be to ask then how do you choose a reasonably good sunscreen if an SPF is no longer a responsible indicator. Unfortunately, you cannot rely on the designation that many sunscreens use “Broad Spectrum UVA/UVB”. Both the FDA and Health Canada are also in need of regulating what that designation means precisely. Manufacturers are permitted to label their sunscreens as being broad spectrum as long as they offer a modicum of UVA protection. Many brands however fail to span the full length of the UVA spectrum or they offer very weak protection at best. The hard answer is that there is no easy way to look at the front of a bottle and know the quality of protection you are being afforded. You need to flip the bottle over and look at the ingredients listed as most ingredients protect against UVB only, some protect against UVA only, and even fewer span the entire range of both.
In Part II of this blog, I’ll go over which ingredients to look for and in what concentrations they need to be present in to be effective. The shocking news will not end here though. As a tidbit- did you know that the two of the most popular sunscreen ingredients can have negative reactions when they are exposed to sunlight? The quality of some sunscreens is mind boggling. Yet, until consumers know to ask for better, there is no impetus for manufacturers to change.
Perhaps that is why we never read about the dupe that is SPF. Until the FDA and Health Canada comes out with their own labeling system for UVA, you have to be a sunscreen sleuth to figure what constitutes a good sunscreen. It’s disheartening to think that all the work one does to treat your skin well (including cosmetics/cosmeceuticals, diet, and cosmetic procedures) is being undone the moment you walk outside with mediocre protection.
If you cannot wait until Part II, I suggest reading the Primer on Sunscreens that I wrote for our patients at our sister clinic Laserderm (http://www.cyberderm.ca/Media/Documents/SunscreenPrimer.pdf). Also- a non-profit group based in Washington DC has an excellent database that you can use to type in the name of our sunscreen and see what level of protection you are getting (http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/). You can also search for sunscreen active ingredients in case your brand is not available.
I’d encourage you to be proactive about finding an excellent sunscreen and I promise to help with any questions you may have.
Until Part II, all the beauty best (even if that is hard to come by).
Sara A. Dudley
The CyberDERM staffers are pretty modest gals but like all of us, they have their eyes on a couple of key things this Christmas. They give the gift of beautiful skin everyday so for this month- we thought it would be fun to see what is on their holiday wish list and near and dear to their hearts during the season.
Be thankful for the negative things and people in your life because they teach you what not to do and how not to react to situations. I have learned patience and acceptance.
|Karina-Trimming the Tree|
2 plane tickets to California for Christmas and New Year!
the Every Morning Sun Whip! The H2o Hydration comes in pretty close too.
This is hard I have so many but I would have to say my Jane Iredale Amazing base foundation it gives me a flawless complexion, has added SPF and no chemicals so it’s good for your skin and good for the earth.
Exfoliate , and then spray tan! Make sure you do exfoliate first though. Shimmer is great on the decolte: 24 carat gold dust shimmer from Jane Iredale with actual gold flecks. Just remember- shimmer, not sparkles. Top it off with lots of gloss, perfectly manicured nails and your hair blown out.
|Mary Kay- Adding the Presents Below|
lesson learned this year: As a busy mom of three active boys it’s hard to take time for yourself. This year I finally realized how important it is and ensure that I find the time.
gift you would most like to receive: I feel guilty because I really don’t need anything but if I put my guilt aside I would really love a Michael Kors watch.
favourite CyberDERM product: I love the H2O Hydration. Especially this time of year.
favourite other product: I just discovered Jane Iredale Just Kissed. It’s a lip stick that works with your PH. It’s a different color one everyone.
tip for your skin surviving winter: Keep hydrating – serums are a great help.
tip for getting ready for holiday parties: I’m a no fuss type of girl but when I do put in some effort I do like the new BB creme which gives a flawless complexion and I also like the rose gold eye glitter.
lesson learned this year: I realized that sometimes when you don’t get what you want it’s not because you don’t deserve it but because you deserve more.
|Lorena: Putting on the Finishing Touches|
gift you would most like to receive: Loose tea leaves from all over the world. I love my tea black and bitter!
favourite CyberDERM product: I don’t just have one, I love two. I love mixing the H2O Hydration with my Simply Zinc for better absorption.
favourite other product: I love Jane Iredale’s Amazing Base Loose Powder in Suntan.
tip for your skin surviving winter: While you are still behind the shower curtain and all the warm steam is trapped in the little space, dry off, and then apply your body lotion. That way, when you open the curtain your pores will close up and retain the moisturizer for longer.
tip for getting ready for holiday parties: For extra root volume I like washing my hair at night and when I lay down I lift it up so It’s spread above the top of my pillow away from my neck and face. That way, when it dries the roots were straight up giving it a natural root boost for the next day.
lesson learned this year: I’m trying to take more cues from yoga- I like it because it gets me out of my head and focused in the present. Two things that I’ve learned- you can only control what you put into the world so focus on that. The second is if you have something negative buzzing about you, don’t avoid it but breathe into it.
|Sara: Decorating the Office Furniture|
gift you would most like to receive: I love party dresses but it is not really something that other people can buy for me- I would wear one every day if I could. In which case, accessories to go with party dresses works just wonderfully!
favourite CyberDERM product: Every Morning Sun Whip- I sometimes forget how amazing this is until I’m having a bad skin day and I apply this with my make-up over top. No matter, how red, dry or splotchy I was before, it gives me really pretty, glow-y skin.
favourite other product: Urban Decay eye liner because you have thirty seconds to get the line right and then it does not budge the rest of the day. I also love Jane Iredale- my boyfriend always comments how natural my make-up looks compared to others that he sees.
tip for your skin surviving winter: I need a new tip but this one is so good: olive oil in your bath. You just need a capful and your whole body is moisturized and it has no risk for becoming allergic to it like baby oil. Guests will ask why you have a Costco size of olive oil in the bathroom but it’s worth it.
tip for getting ready for holiday parties: I just bought this body oil that has gold shimmer to it so its perfect for applying to your legs and arms before a party. Mine is by Lucy B. called Frangipani and it has a lovely natural scent to it so it doubles as perfume.