Category Archives: Uncategorized

weed in skincare, CBC in skincare, weed in Canada

Weed is here in Canada, what does it mean for your skincare?

Weed is here in Canada, what does it mean for your skincare?

The short answer, is not much.

Today is officially the day where weed is now legal across our great country- Canada.  It’s a tricky beast of an issue- there are so many questions that relate to it in a thousand ways. People are definitely ‘buzzed’ (Ha! Mom joke) about the potential for cannabis in its different forms in skincare. The truth is- it’s still the wild west when it comes to understanding what form if any it will be allowed in skincare, what are its benefits from a scientific and not just an anecdotal perspective and what are the risks.  It’s indeed a ‘growing’ industry (last pun for the day, I promise) but one full of uncertainty and questions with no answers. Here is what we do know.

The Regulatory System for Skincare in Canada:

First a quick note about the different ways skincare can be sold in Canada.  There are three routes that skincare can be sold based on what the product claims to do and what level of medical oversight due to potential risks Health Canada feels is necessary.  The lowest category of risks belongs to products that Health Canada calls cosmetics- whether they are colour cosmetics (like make-up) or skincare.  Health Canada maintains a list of ingredients that cannot appear in cosmetics like most forms of cannabis and/or ones that have restrictions on them, for instance a limit on concentration.  The 2nd class of product are considered drug products but are low risk enough that they are consider Over-the-Counter.  Sunscreens that have a labelled SPF are considered this type of product and can either have a Drug Identification Number or a Natural Health Product Number, depending on the type of ingredients.  A product can contain typical sunscreen actives and be considered a cosmetic product if it makes no sun protection claims and is not marketed as a sunscreen.  Finally, there are prescription drug products that require a physician to write a prescription for.

Until today, cannabis was available in a medical grade form by prescription but was not permitted for use in cosmetics or as a natural health product.  Any form other than the prescription form was considered illegal and thus subject to the laws that dealt with it as an illicit drug.  Today with official legalization taking place, let’s see how that may or may not change.

The three forms of Cannabis related actives and what is currently allowed in skincare

When we talk about cannabis based topical products, there are typically three categories.  Hemp seed oil based products, which are allowed in cosmetic skincare, is the most widely used form and has been since the 90’s.  The Body Shop was one of the first to use it. It contains no cannabidiol or derivative whatsoever and is analogous to any other plant based oil. It’s purported to be rich in Omega fatty acids and is thus comparable to something like the Inca Inchi Seed Oil that we use in our Natrèceutique line.

The newest rage in the skincare industry is CBD, otherwise known as cannabidiol or Cannabis Sativa Flower Extract. This uses the whole plant as its source rather than just the seeds.  It contains no THC, however, and does not deliver any psychoactive high.  It’s currently not allowed in any cosmetic skincare product in Canada by Health Canada and appears as a prohibited item on the Cosmetic Hot List. Health Canada is relatively weak on enforcing restricted and prohibited ingredients in cosmetic skincare though so it does not mean that there are no products available.  These products are just not strictly legal and the companies in question most likely have not submitted  a cosmetic notification form to let Health Canada know the product is being sold.

Their legal status is not set to change today with the legalization of weed. Health Canada has not implemented any framework for approving cosmetics that contain CBD’s and its unclear to pretty much everyone if and when they will.  Earlier in the year, insiders predicted that products containing less than 10 ppm THC will be one day be able to get a Natural Health Product Number.   This means they might allow for CBD products with declared concentrations in Over The Counter topicals in the same way they regulate sunscreens. This would allow them to maintain a level of oversight over products and brands would have to specific levels of quality control and transparency. However, at this point, I have not been able to confirm whether this will actually happen.

Alternatively, CBD might become a permitted ingredient in cosmetic skincare but with restrictions in concentrations and products will not be able to make any health claims.  This route will also mean that products will not list the concentration of CBD as an active ingredient so consumers would have a more difficult time assessing concentrations across products.

The third category are topical products that actually contain THC or tetrahydrocannabinol.  This is the active that gets you the ‘high’ associated commonly with cannabis use.  It might seem perplexing but while you can smoke or ingest products with THC, you will not be able to pop into your local Sephora and buy a lip balm containing it.  In other words, it’s not an active that we or other skincare suppliers will have access to. It’s unclear whether government mandated suppliers will have topical products.  As of today, cannabis oils with different combinations of THC and CBD can be sold through whatever means each province has set up as their avenue of distribution.  Presumably, people can purchase the oils and DIY homemade topical applications or perhaps these dispensaries will have ready made versions.  These topical though will be restricted to these dispensaries (on-line or physical locations) so no Sephora products or private brands will be able to sell them.  In any case, products containing THC are outside of skin deep beautifying or wellness applications.  Which brings us to what are the possible benefits of each type…

Benefits in Topical Use

As mentioned, hemp seed oil is really just another choice of plant based oil. You can weigh its pros and cons against any other plant oil like our Inca Inchi Oil or Hibiscus Oil. You’re looking at what phytonutrients are available in its profile and then you will want to look at is extraction method and purity.

The CBD portion of skincare is the one that has been a huge emerging trend but one with plenty of questions. It’s reported to work on certain receptors within our body, separate from a psychoactive point of view, that can help with pain management and anxiety, which is why it’s merged into a wellness product as well.  From a strictly skin deep benefit, it seems that it’s mainly an anti-inflammatory and thus potential benefits relate to eczema, psoriasis, acne etc.  However, what concentration is required to be beneficial? Since it’s not permitted for use in cosmetic skincare, it’s virtually impossible to get samples for research and development purposes.  There is a route by Health Canada for applying for clinical trial studies for Natural Health Products but it’s a much more involved process than for a cosmetic product that makes no health claims.  It requires proper authorization from Health Canada to begin, physician and an external review board oversight. It’s unlikely then that smaller companies will undertake the necessary steps to properly start the important initial research. As more data emerges from larger corporations, and as regulations are more firmly set, then it makes sense smaller entities will start to offer products in a legal setting. This legal setting will most likely involve pre-market approvals by Health Canada with defined limits for % of active, defined health claims that can be made and will mandate that only specially licensed facilities will be able to manufacture products according to Good Manufacturing Practices and quality control.

I’ve not come across any skin related benefits to using THC based topicals. I doubt it will become a mainstream skincare active but we will have to see how the ebbs and flows of the industry with this new heyday of legalization.

For the moment, we as a skincare company have no products in research in development that use any of the above cannabis products. With our close proximity to medical professionals capable of running proper Health Canada approved clinical trials, it’s possible that we could take steps to further advance research for CBD as an active.  There is certainly a lot of hype surrounding the ingredient but that has never been an incentive for us to take action.  The world is full of interesting and exciting ingredients for skin rejuvenation and wellness.  Let us know what you think because your interest, as opposed to hype or observing trends, is an actual incentive for us to act.  Share in the comments what you think!

Deciem dupes, The Ordinary Dupes

Our Products as Dupes for Other Brands

It feels funny to think of our products as dupes for any other company (although if we were forced to compare there are some similarities with Drunk Elephant but that is another post) but we do get asked how to our products compare with the cheaper options at The Ordinary.  We fully admit that we do not come close in terms of pricing and we never will with The Ordinary.  We have two different business models and we are a different size of company completely.  We are not going to compete on price, at times The Ordinary pricing equalled our cost of goods. We also feel that we offer exceptional value in terms of the quality of our products from our sunscreens to any of our other skincare options. Having said that, I will put a sweet little promo code at the bottom of this article though just to say thanks for considering us.

Our Retin+Erase vs. the Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane and other iterations:

This is the most obvious one to compare as we are one of the handful that offers this incredible active of a retinoid ester or Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. It’s a unique molecule that is proprietary to the supplier Grant (the Gran in Granactive). It has excellent tolerability and efficacy, like a cross between retinol and a prescription retinoid in terms of molecular structure.  We always caution people to not get confused with the math- we have a 1% active concentration of the retinoid ester itself and 10% of the raw material granactive.  To put it in equivalent terms, The Ordinary has .5% active at its highest concentration or as they put it 5% of the raw material itself. We therefore have double the concentration and actually the maximum allowed concentration in Canada.  I’ve been astounded though how well tolerated the product is- most people are able to use it every day whereas they might struggle with a 1% equivalent in retinol.  Our Retin+Erase is pretty simple otherwise, it has 4 total ingredients.  You need a pea sized amount for the entire face so the 15 ml bottle lasts up to six weeks if you were to use it approximately once a day.

Our Nu-Shroom Hydrafill Serum and/or our Natrèceutique Intensive Soothing Serum vs. Marine Hyaluronics and/or Hyaluronic Acid 2% +B5:

Our Nu-Shroom Hydrafill Serum is quite the little gem in our line up, as is our newest addition from our Natrèceutique line, the Intensive Soothing Serum.  They are both lightweight humectant based serums so they draw water to the skin’s surface for a nice plumping effect.  These two products are your best bet for glowing skin where your make-up applies smoothly.  Your Nu-Shroom contains a natural form of hyaluronic acid, derived from Silver Ear Mushrooms. It also as a host of botanicals like Portulaca Pilosa for plumping (was actually first used for a lip plumping application), Irish Moss for hydration and sesame extract for tightening. I love Nu-Shroom Hydrafill for the morning.  This is actually my husbands favourite product from our line up as well- he might be drinking it as we seem to go through a fair bit.  Our Intensive Soothing Serum uses another humectant called Propanediol to draw water to the skin, however it also contains a whopping 5% date extract.  The Date was grown from an original seed that dates back 2000 years.  There is emerging data about its effect on improving capillary function and thus reducing redness. It’s calming but in a very active way, thus the intense part of the name.

Our PM Anti-Age vs. EUK 134

This might be the biggest stretch of the imagination since we are comparing an $89 night cream to a single active product for $8.80.  Both products contain EUK 134, which is a powerhouse little anti-oxidant that I think gives Vitamin C a run for its money.  I know that people love Vitamin C but my particular issue with it is that its neither stable within a bottle (hence stories of oxidation of finished products where their Vitamin C formula changes colour) but it’s also not stable on your face.  Vitamin C is an antioxidant that can break down after one cycle of free radical scavenging into hydrogen peroxide molecules that are equally damaging to the skin. EUK 134 mimics two essential enzymes that our bodies natural produce called Super Oxide Dismutase and Catalase.  Enzymes can continuously mop up free radical and are not limited to one cycle and they do not break down into hydrogen peroxide molecules.  The difficulty with EUK 134 is that its benefits seem theoretical, it’s hard to picture the importance of free radical scavenging and what it means for your every day skin.  However, whatever you think of Vitamin C, I would say EUK 134 is the better antioxidant.  The price difference in our products comes by virtue of the fact that our PM Anti-Age contains 4 other powerhouse ingredients. Turmeric is the most obvious in the product and really delivers lovely skin brightening in addition to all of the other health benefits associated with associated with turmeric.  It also includes Renovage, an ingredient with fairly technical merits that in theory work to prolong the life span of collagen and elastin molecules in the skin.  Gorgonian Sea Whip is a sustainably harvested algae as an anti-inflammatory. Cranberry Seed Oil is harvest from the harsh nordic North and has one of the highest antioxidant values.  Our skin does not age in one single way but along multiple different pathologies hence different actives for different benefits. I imagine that most people were using The Ordinary EUK 134 product in tangent with multiple other products to try and derive a similar benefit.

Sunscreens

I’m not calling our sunscreens anyones dupe. I firmly believe we have innovated these next generation of sunscreens to be in a different league in terms of protectiveness and aesthetics.  We’ve overcome the difficulties in working with zinc oxide and our Bio UVA Ultra proprietary technology means that you cannot even compare our concentrations with other brands. The 15% zinc oxide concentration in Ava Isa is not comparable to a 15% in any other brand as it could be anywhere from 60-100% more protective in the UVA range.

So there you have it, an imperfect dupe list.  Our customers for the past 10 years might have shopped with both companies- even I used to buy The Ordinary Squalane since I liked to add it to my routine every once and a while.  We know the lack of similarly price products is tough but we are another Canadian company, exclusively made in Canada, with a loving team behind us that supports all of our retail partners in the North American skincare industry.  Our products take years to research and develop them. We use niche and incredibly innovative ingredients and use them in high concentrations and then round out the formula with equally prestige ingredients.

For those who stuck around to the end of this post, here is the promo code as promised- hopefully incentive to give us a try if you’ve never before.  Use PROMO CODE NOORDINARY30 to get 30% off as a one time coupon per customer.  If you are feeling sad, hopefully it cheers you up a little!

Warmest regards,

Sara

pur opulence, montreal beauty blog, the sunscreen company

Pur Opulence and The Sunscreen Company Brand Overview

Kiara from Pur Opulence had a chance to feel out some of our most popular products from across our three brands Ava Isa, CyberDERM and Natrèceutique. Check out her thoughts and recos- a great summer read.

Click here to read: http://puropulence.com/beauty/sunscreen-company

Ava+Isa

All About Sunscreen with Life with Zandra

Check out Sara, our Executive Director, and her chat with vegan lifestyle blogger from Calgary Life with Zandra.  They chat about what makes for a great sunscreen, sunscreen myths and so much more.

Check it out here: http://www.lifewithzandra.com/beauty/everything-about-sunscreen

Ava Isa SPF 45, sunscreen, The Sunscreen Company

How our Ava Isa SPF 45 Ultra Matte Sunscreen Line Came to Be

The Story of Ava Isa

The idea for our new line of ultra-matte sunscreens Ava Isa came to me while I was pregnant with my daughter Ava Isabella.  We’d been discussing for a long time the troubling statistic that in young women aged 25-30, skin cancer was the number one cancer killer (more on that in a bit).  Our amazing chemist, Tom Heinar (who we talked to in this interview) came to me saying he had just had a great meeting with a supplier that makes these beautiful pigments and he thought they would be great in a sunscreen.

I myself had been looking into a primer for that summer, something that would give me a little bronzy pop on my skin. I was curious about what makes a great primer so I bought several different ones from Sephora.  However, the sticking point with them was it was annoying to use a primer and then a sunscreen.  Some of the primers had an SPF with them but they were really bad sunscreens.  I could imagine all of these young women forgoing their sunscreen just to get the illuminating benefits of the primer.

As a team, we connected the dots and said wait- we can make an impact here.  We didn’t want people making that choice and we knew we could offer a better solution.  We make great sunscreens. Can we offer skin optimization like other products? Thus began the year and a half project of formulating Ava Isa.

Ava Isa SPF 45, sunscreen, The Sunscreen Company

Me and the too cool real-life Ava Isa.

Why name it after my daughter?

When you stop and think about the fact that skin cancer is the #1 cancer killer for young women, it is absolutely nuts.  Why is there this blip of high incidences of skin cancer in this demographic? In the past, skin cancer had been something that would show up in mature adults who had a lifetime of UV exposure.  For it to be literally killing this young generation of people had the entire company thinking about the reasons. We knew that the UVB biased sunscreens of the 90’s that continue until today had to play a role.  These high SPF’s took away sunburns but did not protect against UVA.  They made the world one big tanning bed and removed our natural signalling process to get out of the sun. There is a generation that received a huge onslaught of damaging UVA rays and their immune suppressing impact.  We think this is one reason for the increase of skin cancer in young people.

With this in mind, we had the idea of what Ava Isa could be and its potential impact.  I wanted to give that potential legacy to my daughter.  When we were putting together the branding, marketing and packaging- I pictured her at the age of 25.  What would she like? What would make her proud?  And the mom in me wondered how it might protect her.

The Tint

We had 3 main goals in creating Ava Isa- get some nice tints under our belt that were fairly universal, nail the texture of the sunscreen itself and incorporate our learnings about how to make sunscreens ultra protective.

For the tints, we started with a couple of different variations.  We didn’t want them to replace foundation so we knew these ones would not be different skin tones.  Instead, we wanted more skin illumination.  The tint that could now be found in Aurora Rose was one of the first ones we came up with. It’s a nude/pink.  It does not have any shimmer to it because we didn’t think that would play well with the ultra matte texture.  It has a slightly cool tint to it (as opposed to a warm one).  For a great skin swatch, you can check out Michelle Villet’s review on her new site Skincare Edit of Aurora Rose.

We also played around with a bronzing version that we will get right one day and it will be called Lakeside Bronze- an ode to our Canadian roots.  We didn’t quite get that one right but we are continuing to work on it.  In the end, we decided to launch with an untinted version called Pure so that people could have a choice. Depending on how the line does, we hope to launch new tints as we go further.

AvaIsa Ferns.jpg copyThe Texture

If you’ve had a chance to trial Ava Isa, you will know it’s our most matte option.  It dries down on the skin almost instantaneously and is weightless.  People who hate the way sunscreen can feel on the skin or who can have oily/combination skin absolutely love this texture.  If you happen to be more on the dry side of things or have really mature skin- Ava Isa will not help with hydration so might not be the right option. If you prefer a more dewy look for your skin, then I’d recommend our Every Morning Sun Whip SPF 25.  The texture is similar to a matte lipstick- for some people it’s exactly what they are looking for but others its not their best option.  The quick dry texture also means that you need to apply Ava Isa almost like a make-up.  I like to use the quadrant method on my face where I decant the product on the back of my hand and then use my finger to apply to the quadrants of my face. I make sure to blend, i.e. rub, the product in and pay specific attention to the edges where you might miss rubbing.  If you apply the product with a little more care and make sure to rub it in, it is 100% transparent on the skin and beautiful.  However, for people like my husband who applies sunscreen where he just smashes it into his face, Ava Isa might leave a white streak where it dried before you could rub it in.  So the lesson is- don’t apply sunscreen like my husband.

The Protection

Tints and texture are all well and good but mean nothing if we didn’t bring our A game when it came to making Ava Isa protective.  First, it’s a true SPF 45.  It’s 15% zinc oxide, which in theory would not be able to get you an SPF 45.  Our patent pending innovation Bio UVA Ultra amps up our protection in both the UVB and UVA range.  We use a certified organic natural ingredient to help improve the dispersion of the zinc oxide to make it much more efficient. Zinc oxide has a natural limit of a UVA Protection Factor of about 12 if you max out the concentration of zinc oxide at 25%. It is a great active that is our only real option for true broad spectrum protection in North America but it has its limits.  Our Every Morning Sun Whip SPF 25 has a UVA PF of 9, our old Simply Zinc SPF 30 had one of just under 12, and Ava Isa has one of 15 (our new Simply Zinc Ultra has one of 20).  We are putting our money where our mouth is when it comes to protection and we are getting better and better.

So you can see when we say that we made Ava Isa with “Love and Protection In Every Bottle”, we weren’t kidding.  The mom in me wants to go around the medicine cabinets of the world and tell people to forgo the sunscreens with 2% zinc, to skip the primers with the outdated SPF formulas.  They are not protecting you.  However, the mom in me has also learned that you can’t cajole people into not doing something. Ava Isabella is a toddler now so I’ve learned that lesson.  You need to listen to what people want. In this case, beautiful skin with beautiful ingredients.  You can build in the protection- it might not get the same kind of acknowledgement but it will keep them safe.

natural sunscreen, physical sunscreen, zinc oxide sunscreen, The Sunscreen Company

SUN PROTECTION MYTHS: Physical Sunscreens and More

INTRODUCTION

Think zinc oxide sunscreens act like physical barriers? What about the different between natural sunscreens versus chemical ones? What makes a safe sunscreen and what are some common myths.  The Sunscreen Doc, our co-founder Dr. Denis Dudley, tackles some of the most pervasive ones on his blog.

Click here to read and feel free to keep asking more questions or let us know what you think!

 

reef safe sunscreen

Reef Safe Sunscreens and the Hawaii Ban

What Does Reef Safe Mean and All About the Hawaii Ban

We’ve been fielding a lot of questions as of late as to our perspective on the recent Hawaii ban. It’s such a definitive action in an industry where regulations move so languidly and industry is often left to self-regulate.

There is no question that for the most part, the ban in Hawaii on oxybenzone and octinoxate is a good thing.  This is coming from us as a zinc oxide sunscreen provider that has a formula that contains octinoxate.  We’ll get to that important detail.  However, we’ve been beating a drum against oxybenzone since the creation of our company. Some might say it was one of the reasons we started our company. Certainly a sunscreen that is defined as ‘safe enough for a pregnant woman to use’ will never include one formulated with oxybenzone so it is refreshing to see the first piece of definitive legislation come out against it.

Having said that, there is no question that the Hawaii decision is also partially political in nature.  If it was merely science-led, then the data against for reef degradation is limited to oxybenzone.  There is substantial reason to condemn oxybenzone with respect to coral bleaching or what is otherwise known as the ossification of coral. It’s been shown to be toxic to the symbiotic organisms that co-habitate with coral, and are essential to its existence. It’s also beens shown to impede the corals ability to fight of viral infection and withstand rising water temperatures as part of global warming.  It’s the characteristics of oxybenzone that are most likely the cause for these adverse effects.  It’s a filter of small molecular weight, less than half the size of a nanometer (compared to nano zinc oxide which is typically 70-100+ nanometers in size). It is photo reactive and breaks down in sunlight to create Reactive Oxygen Species. It’s been shown repeatedly to permeate human tissue and there is considerable evidence that points to its role as an endocrine disruptor.  It’s reasonable to extrapolate that this toxicity to the larvae within the reefs is a similar biological response, some form of hormone disruption on a larger scale.

The inclusion of octinoxate is curious in the sense that it’s a form of a half step.  There is limited science in terms of directly correlating the same coral bleaching to octinoxate, however, it is reasonable to extrapolate it might have a similar effect based on very similar shared characteristics with oxybenzone. Both conventional octinoxate and oxybenzone are of small molecular weight, photo reactive and potential endocrine disruptors.  However, so are other organic/carbon based filters like avobenzone, homosalate, octisalate, and more.  In fact, avobenzone is even more similar to oxybenzone in that they share the similar chemical structure of a benzene ring.  The same structure that means in a chemistry lab they would be handled with care under a chemical hood and with significant handling measures to prevent contact.  However, these other filters were not included. It’s reasonable to ask why?  It’s most likely a case of where the precautionary principle butts against practical limitations.  You can imagine how weighty a ban would be if it included most organic based filters.  With skin cancer still on the rise, it would also be difficult to limit sunscreen options where 95% of available ones still include these organic filters.

On Encapsulated Octinoxate

I know some might read our questioning of the ban as part of a vested interest as our formula Every Morning Sun Whip SPF 25 contains encapsulated octinoxate.  Although this ban does not allow for any exceptions and this means that users cannot bring this formula to Hawaii shorelines, we feel all others can feel confident in its every day use.  We would never consider using conventional octinoxate for all of the reasons we listed above.  We feel it can be blackballed for the same reasons we would forgo oxybenzone.

Encapsulation remains an innovative solution or work around to the issues with these small molecular weight filters.  The octinoxate we use is doped in a silica bead (which is derived from sand), making it roughly the size of 5-7 microns, meaning it’s 10,000 to 14,000 times larger than conventional octinoxate.  It therefore cannot permeate living tissue, either human or animal. The octinoxate does not come into contact with the tissue or coral itself as it remains within the silica bead. This is how encapsulated octinoxate does not have the same issue with photo-allergy that often plagues conventional octinoxate.

The process of encapsulation turns these small problematic filters into large particles, similar in characteristics to zinc oxide and other minerals.  It’s unfortunate that it has not been more commonly used in the industry but it’s lack of use relates more to cost and formulation challenges and not its intrinsic merit.

Implications of the ban

The most immediate implications will be that consumers will see more and more of the label claim ‘reef safe’.  However, the term is not regulated in terms of what it means and most likely will never be regulated.  A quick Google search for ‘reef safe sunscreens’ returns a whole host of options, some of which include formulas with oxybenzone.  As is customary for this industry, consumers are going to have to be educated label readers.

Formulas containing high concentrations of zinc oxide remain the most prudent choice for consumers.  We encourage consumers to look for sunscreen providers who are credible and know the science behind their offerings.  Consumers should also look to other sun safety measures while on holiday like the use of sun protective clothing.

There is a path forward for consumers to be both health and environmentally conscious and we as a company, The Sunscreen Company TM, will continue in our efforts to lead the way.

sunscreen launch, summer, zinc oxide, The Sunscreen Company

What You Need to Know from the other Canadian Company Launching Sunscreens this summer

An Interview between Tom Heinar and Sara Dudley, Co-Founders of The Sunscreen Company TM

What You Need to Know from the other Canadian Company Launching Sunscreens this summer

Name: Tom Heinar

Credentials: Bachelor of Science in Chemistry and Biochemistry

Years in the Business:

39 Years in the Business Total, 36 Years in Cosmetic Formulations

Previous Companies: Estée Lauder, Revlon Canada, Unilever and more plus own private consulting company Cosmetic Formulation Services

Sara: You have been in the business a very long time.  What’s your relationship with The Sunscreen Company TM and why the focus on sunscreens?

Tom: I’ve been with The Sunscreen Company TM since its earliest days in 1995.  My co-founders and I have been working and developing sunscreens so intensively in that time that I’ve made it clear on any other projects that I work on that I would only formulate sunscreens for us as a company.  We’ve developed some really key innovations in sunscreen formulations, one of which is patent pending, and they are only available through here.

Sara: What are some of the innovations?

Tom: We’ve found a way to improve not only the SPF of all mineral formulas but also the UVA protection factor, which is critical to making the best sunscreen possible.

Sara: So you can have a high SPF (SPF 40-50+) in an all mineral sunscreen? Is it a true SPF?

Tom: Yes, you can absolutely have a high SPF in an all mineral sunscreen, i.e. use only inorganic filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.  When people say the SPF is fake, they are alluding to the fact that you can game the SPF test by including things like anti-oxidants and anti-inflammatories in the formula that take away skin redness but only use low concentrations of the active filters.  The SPF test uses human subjects and a measure of skin redness so if you take away skin redness then you can get an artificially high SPF.  That is commonly done in the industry, however it is not something we would do.  

All of our formulas use high concentrations of zinc oxide, a minimum of 15% but as high as the maximum of 25%.  We do use other minerals like titanium dioxide and some proprietary mixes of others to give a real SPF of 45-50, depending on the specific formula.

Sara: You mentioned a patented innovation. What is it?

Tom: We’ve developed a proprietary dispersion method that makes the minerals we use much more efficient in protecting against both UVA and UVB rays.  It’s an Ecocert certified organic ingredient that holds the active ingredients in uniform suspension so that you get even protection.  Zinc oxide has a tendency to want to clump together so by keeping it in uniform suspension you make it more efficient.  A 15% concentration of zinc oxide then begins to act like a 25% concentration, and a 25% concentration is even better.

In short, we’ve found a way to make the most protective zinc oxide sunscreens- ever.  

Sara: What about the idea that an SPF 30 blocks up to 97% and an SPF 60 only blocks up to around 98%? Is a higher SPF necessary?

Tom: That is true but it’s only part of the story.  In years passed, we have tried to get people to move away from just focusing on SPF because it only really talks about protection against UVB. It missed the critical factor of what the UVA protection was.  

Five years ago, we wanted people to use good high concentration zinc oxide sunscreens in order to get better UVA protection.  A lot of the other, conventional sunscreens were what we called UVB biased, i.e. might have had an SPF 100 but really poor UVA protection.  So we didn’t want people sacrificing their protection against UVA to get a high SPF.

Things have changed now though.  You don’t have to compromise between the two.  You can get excellent UVA protection with high concentration zinc oxide sunscreens and get high UVB/SPFs as well.  When we talk about having next generation sunscreens, that is what we are talking about.

Sara: What are some use cases where people might care about having a higher SPF?

Tom: Certainly for some Canadians mid-winter, who have minimal daily exposure outside- or doing activities like commuting to work, a lower SPF is ok.  However, if you are going to have extended exposure, then a higher SPF is better as long as you are not trading off your UVA protection.  

Sara: Are these sunscreens aesthetic?

Tom: Yes. We’ve always said there is no point formulating a sunscreen that is protective if it doesn’t look good on the skin. It’s not offering any protection if it stays in the bottle so to speak.  People really liked the transparency and matte quality of our previous formulations.  Our next generation of formulas are equally as good.  

Sara: Can you discuss some of the technical innovations in the new Ava Isa SPF 45 line?

Tom: That product was intended to be incredibly matte and dry on the skin to feel weightless.  It’s thixotropic, meaning it seems to be thicker but as soon as you put any pressure on it, say pushing it through the opening of the bottle, it thins out.  When you rub it on the skin, it drys almost instantaneously so you don’t feel any heavy sensation.  That took a considerable amount of work during development to get that texture.

It also includes our patent pending innovation so it’s 15% zinc oxide makes it more protective than our previous 22% zinc oxide (former Simply Zinc SPF 30) in the UVA range by at least 30%.

Sara: What about the upcoming Simply Zinc Ultra SPF 50?

Tom: That formula is a complete revision from its previous version (Simply Zinc SPF 30).  It contains 25% zinc oxide, so the maximum allowed in many countries.  It is very light in texture as well and has close to the same viscosity as water.  It has really light weight vegetable oils from saturated fats like coconut alkanes, and it again dries down on the skin almost instantaneously.  

It also contains our patent pending innovation so to our knowledge and according to our testing, it is one of the most protective zinc oxide sunscreens available, in the world.  

Sara: What is next in sunscreen formulations?

Tom: We always are looking for ways to improve.  We are looking at the impact of blue light and its effect on melasma and photo-aging. We will always look at ways to make zinc oxide even more protective, although I think we’ve gotten as close to perfect as we can with that.

We’ve also developed a formula that mixes a 22% zinc oxide with 9% Tinosorb M and 1% Tinosorb S.  They are incredibly safe and effective filters from Europe that are not allowed in the US.  It’s unfortunate because that is truly as close to a perfect sunscreen as we can get but we are restricted from selling it in North America.  It will change the game when we can sell it though and we are looking for global partners to help us.

We’ve really taken the time to specialize in sunscreens.  We want to live up to our name as The Sunscreen Company TM.  When you do that, the possibilities are endless.

Natrèceutique, Intensive Soothing Serum

Introducing Natrèceutique Intensive Soothing Serum

New Natrèceutique.

We do not typically launch an entirely new brand with so little fanfare.  We have a lot going on behind the scenes at the moment and we’ll be doing some larger scale reveals with a little more pomp and circumstance.  Frankly, these are beautiful products and they deserve a little celebration.  For now though, for our loyal customers, we are so pleased to quietly present a new product from a new brand.

What is Natrèceutique?

The idea for Natrèceutique was born when we attempted to sell an all-natural luxury product line in our sister clinic and ended up discontinuing it. Customers liked the idea of it but we were constantly in conflict with our referring dermatologists.  They disliked the long list of ingredients.  They hated the use of essential oils.  They were not having the use of fragrances, whether they were natural or synthetic. They were not a fan of Vitamin E as a preservative or other naturally derived ingredients that are sensitizers, especially in their patient population that very often has compromised skin.

It seemed a missed opportunity that the Western medical world and the green beauty world could not speak to each other.  Our original skincare line started as a medical one but we shared a lot of ideas with the green beauty space.  We are huge proponents of being critical of ingredients that get absorbed into your body.  We have never used what we consider ‘filler’ ingredients, i.e. cheap, synthetics that are intended to make the product look or feel better but do nothing for the skin.  We had fallen in love with a large number of all-natural ingredients with impressive mechanisms of action and we’d been using them in high concentrations to get the best results.

It made us think, if a dermatologist were to create an all-natural line, what would it look like?

It would be Natrèceutique or as we like to think of it, Nature Distilled.

What’s different about the line?

We were pretty clear about what was not going to be in the line. No essential oils.  No known allergens or sensitizers like Vitamin E.  We were going to keep the ingredient list ,as we always do, simple.

You cannot create a line though out of what is not in a product.  We’d amassed over the years a list of beautiful actives of natural derivation that we were excited about.  We also wanted the line to have the same credibility as our clinical line.  We started to explore the pharmacopeia of natural ingredients.  We dug deep into the vast world of polyphenols and their complex chemistry.  We also looked at medical journals to see the natural roots of many common medicines.  In fact, most Western medicine have nature based ancestors before they begin down the path of being processed and synthesized.  We also had our deep understanding of the pathology of the skin and common skin concerns due to our dermatology background.  All combined, we had a wish list of fantastic natural actives. We furthered refined this list with criteria for preserving the ingredients through distillation processes that maintained their integrity and for sustainable harvesting practices.

How is the line going to make my skin better?

We’d always received the consistent feedback that while people loved our original clinical line, some women with mature skin needed some extra hydration. I always reminded people not to confuse the thickness of a product with hydration.  I tried to point out the myth that a Pond style cream was delivering extra moisture when really it just had occlusive ingredients and thickeners in it.  I also pointed out that the harder work in terms of hydration is to improve the cellular mechanisms within the skin that preserves its own natural hydration rather than just adding it back in through a product.  That’s all true.

However, after having my daughter, postpartum skin hit and for the first couple of months I could experience first hand what some of our customers had been feeling.  As my doctor said, my body at that moment had a lot in common with a post-menopausal woman.  I could see how dehydrated my skin was- it’s internal ability to retain moisture was temporarily gone.  It thought this whole preserving skin for the future is great, but I need moisture and I need it now!

I think I owe those women who wrote into us an apology for not realizing what they were saying, sooner.  I had to take a trip in their skin to truly appreciate their concerns. I’m happy to say that the products in Natrèceutique will hopefully support them while delivering our other benefits.

Their are a couple of key ways to provide richness and hydration that actually benefit the skin.  I like plant oils because they have a rich polyphenol chemistry to them that can nourish the skin.  We chose to use Inca Inchi Oil at 10% in a lot of the formulas (launching soon) because it has a well balanced ratio of Omega 3’s, 6’s and 9’s.  We also include Hibiscus Oil because of the anthocyanins that give the flowers their beautiful colour, the same ones shared with a lot of berries.

I find that oils need to be complemented with something that provides a barrier protection to be effective. It’s the same issue I had with my daughter when I tried to use pure coconut oil on her bottom instead of diaper cream.  It was great for hydration and being an anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial but it had zero barrier abilities so we got in trouble and she had a bad bout of diaper rash.  For Natrèceutique, we included this award winning emulsifier that includes a small amount of beeswax.  It just provides the slightest barrier protection so that the hydration in the product has some staying power.

What is the Natrèceutique Intensive Soothing Serum all about?

The Intensive Soothing Serum is an oil-free humectant based hydrator.  This means that it does not include the Inca Inchi and Hibiscus Oil blend but features a fermented corn sugar that draws water to the skin’s surface.  It’s a similar concept to hyaluronic acid.  It’s more intensively hydrating than our current Nu-Shroom Hydrafill Serum so is a great option to supplement with.  I’ve been using this product every night for the past several months and most nights, I will only use a dime sized amount before then layering on something like our H20 Hydration or PM Anti-Age.  Once a week though, I’ve started to saturate my skin by using almost a quarter size of product. It creates an invisible mask that slowly sinks in throughout the night.  You wake up with a very dewy complexion that I’m a fan of- especially since my postpartum dehydrated skin days.

It uses 5% date extract because we are committed to using ingredients at their effective concentration based on their supporting clinicals, irregardless of cost.  It’s a potent anti-oxidant that has evidence showing it also improves micro-circulation so is beneficial for rosaceous or inflamed skin.

It’s all in all a simple product but in my mind, that is the beauty of the line.  Keep things simple when they need to be. Be curated and intentional.  There is no reason then why both worlds, medical and green beauty, can’t get along.

All the best,

Sara

An Image from our Old Website when a softer look and feel emerged

What’s New with Us. Turns Out a Lot.

Are Hearts Are Full with the Changes Upon Us.

Are Hearts Are Full with the Changes Upon Us.

What’s New with Us. Turns Out a Lot.

We’re in for some exciting changes this fall- ones that we’ve been prepping for these past several years.

What kind of changes are we talking about?

6 new products, including 2 new sunscreens.  2 new packaging changes. 2 new brands. 1 new identity.

1 New Beginning.

There is a lot of unpacking to do in those couple of sentences and we promise to reveal things as we can.  In the interim, I thought I’d take a little time in this blog post to give some history and context about these upcoming changes. For today, let’s start with…

1 New Identity.

We’re actually in our tenth year of operations and we’ve definitely evolved over the years.  Have you ever seen those articles that show what companies like Google or Amazon looked like when they first started? I always find them fascinating because it’s easy to forget the history of a brand and the little stepping stones it took to get to where it is today.

Our First Look- A little Edgier Indeed

Our First Look- A little Edgier Indeed

In the beginning, we were all about “Less Chemicals. More Efficacy. Please”.  I thought I was pretty savvy with the added ‘please’, in italics no less. How Canadian of us.  Our thinking at the time was to move away from the cosmetics with 40-50 ingredient lists.  We knew we could deliver products that were simplified at their core but delivered efficacy so to speak because we chose great actives and used them at high concentrations.  The green beauty movement was just nascent in early 2008 but we were already starting to think about the massive amounts of chemicals that people were being exposed to every day.  Both my parents were concerned- my mother as a dermatologist and just seeing how sensitized people’s skin became.  My father as a retired high risk obstetrician and endocrinologist and examining everything through the litmus test of safety of whether a pregnant woman should be using it.

We actually started with three products, including our AM Hydrating Whip.  We didn’t market it as a sunscreen at the time but it was the earliest iteration of our current Every Morning Sun Whip SPF 25. People’s response to it was overwhelming- they loved the aesthetics of it and the way it made their skin look.  What ultimately converted people though was the story behind sunscreens.  Once they learned about the gap in safety and efficacy between many commercially available sunscreens and ours- people could not believe it was the first time they were hearing this story and they wanted to share it with everyone they knew.

An Image from our Old Website when a softer look and feel emerged

An Image from our Old Website when a softer look and feel emerged

Four years later, while working on our Simply Zinc Sun Whip SPF 30, we realized we were on to something.  We had built an expertise in making sunscreens that was unparalleled in the industry and we had the will and the way to continue.  Hence, we became CyberDERM-The Sunscreen Company TM.  By 2016, we had 5 cosmeceuticals and 2 Sun Whips that could provide the staples in skincare that any professional could recommend to their clientele.

Our Current Look and Name

Our Current Look and Name

We’d also been working behind the scenes on continuing our research in developing the absolute best sunscreens in the world.  That was our ethos and what we’ve been working at non-stop.  We’ve developed a sunscreen with the highest potential UVA protection factor from any that we’ve seen.  Unfortunately, until Health Canada and the FDA approve the widespread use of Tinosorb S and M, that formula will not be launching in North America.

We’ve also developed a patent pending innovation that we think is truly a game-changer.  Launching in all of our new sunscreen formulas going forward, we’ve developed a proprietary way of dramatically increasing the UVA protecting factor of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide sunscreens.  We’re calling it Bio UVA Ultra- best of all it uses a simple, Ecocert certified organic material that is sustainably developed and controversy free.

We’re launching two new sunscreens this fall under a new brand name.  These beauties are worth their own post in its entirety so we won’t go into much more detail for now.  With all of our efforts in developing sunscreens and with the introduction of two new brands, we thought it was time to go all out and make it clear what we are about.  Going forward, we are going to be known as The Sunscreen Company TM.  As The Sunscreen Company TM we can’t wait to present to you three brands made with love and fourteen products full of protection and care.  Thanks for sticking with us through this transformation.

All the best,

Sara